Aug. 6, 2022, Plitvice Lakes, Croatia: The magazine photos that drew me here do not do this place justice. Breathtaking. I decide to set off on a 10-mile hike that takes about 5 hours. First 90 minutes along a lake then up up up to one of the highest spots, few people on the steep narrow trail in the forest, then down down around countless waterfalls and many more people. By mile 8 my legs begin tiring, mile 9 I sit by a lake and plop my feet in the water to cool as small fish quickly group around, eyeing my toes, and a duck swims over to say hello.